Canal

Transiting the Canal is quite a trip. Most of the literature on the subject is scary, to say the least, including horror stories involving boats being crushed by huge ships, etc. Our experience was that it is expensive, but not all that terrifying.

In addition to lines and tires, you need 4 dedicated line handlers. Line handling can be somewhat strenuous and it helps a lot if someone aboard has done it before and knows Spanish reasonably well. You can get both by hiring some locals, which can be provided by your helpful cabbie or by asking around the Yacht Club. Yachties offer to do this for free, both for the experience and to get reciprocal help. Since the Canal has been moving yachts overnight, you have to pay locals for 2 days, about $55/day. On the other hand, they'll take your lines back if you rented them and don't mind sleeping on deck.

You need to check out of Colon when you leave, but the cabbie should help you here. You can even get your international "Zarpe" to your next port in Colon, saving you the trouble of dealing with the Balboa Port Captain, who will want $50 for your sojourn through his waters. Just don't spend too much time in Balboa.

Here are line handlers in action: the guy on the left is Angie, on the right you see Alfonso and a yachtie named Ray, skipper of Drivers Wanted. We're going through Gatun Locks in the dark; as mentioned, the Canal was moving yachts in the early evening, spending the night in Gatun Lake, then finishing the next morning. By the way, it's the trip up that's potentially dangerous, since the swirling waters filling the lock can be quite turbulent. On the way down, you basically coast.

On the left you see sunrise in Gatun Lake, on the right is a ship going through the Lake. It is really strange to see a large ship on a lake.

Here we are the next day going through the Miraflores Locks. On the right is the admiral, keeping everyone on their toes. You will notice off the starboard side is another boat, a Swan 53. We were rafted to the Swan at the Pacific end of the trip. This is common and pretty easy. When asked how you want to transit, you should always say, "center chamber", since you don't want to get stuck along one of the rough walls during operations. But that doesn't mean you won't be tied to another boat if that facilitates the Canal's activities.

Here's a pic of Amante in full armor on the other side, moored at the Balboa Yacht Club. Note the "Bridge of the Americas" in the background. If memory serves, the tidal range on the Pacific side is 12-16'. So, mooring is about the only option, though the thrifty can anchor if they don't mind some inconvenience. If moored at the Yacht Club, you have to use the water-taxi service, because they don't want potential thieves pulling up to their guests. The service is free but many yachties tip the drivers mucho.

The area around the Balboa Yacht Club is pretty safe, at least during the day. To do anything beyond dining at the TGIF's requires a taxi. The cabbies hang out on benches overlooking the Club; the manager refers to them as "my vultures". They often nice but not always, so find a nice cabbie and stick with him. As mentioned before, there are big warehouse grocers such as PriceSmart here as well as chandleries such as Nautipesca. You are well advised to load up as you will be astonished at the prices in French Polynesia.

But, before you get there you have one last opportunity to get some things at reasonable prices: the Galapagos

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