Datong

We don't have a picture of the Datong train station, but it's not especially memorable. The main challenging feature of seemingly all Chinese train stations is that you can't get within 200 meters of them in a vehicle. This means you drag whatever luggage you have the whole way. One would assume this is a security arrangement and has been a design feature for a long time. Either that or they want to make sure you're fit enough to board a train, or it's a way to discourage bringing lots of luggage, which only foreigners seem to do. It's a pain regardless. When a certain somebody was too slow hauling her bags , two good natured Datongers simply pushed the turtle traveler up the long gang way. By the derriere. These two ladies who were human locomotives could not stop laughing. Welcome to Datong!

Paris it ain't. This is a shot of downtown during a dust storm. We think the silhouette in the background to the right is part of the Great Wall, which in this area was stripped of its bricks in order to build army barracks. The proximity of Datong to Mongolia made it a big military base when the Russians were menacing the border. The streets are often wider than Paris, which we assumed was for the easy movement of tanks.

What this picture doesn't quite capture is that the people on the motorbikes where practically being blown down by the wind. The dust storms make Datong even bleaker that usual. It may be the ugly stepsister to Beijing, but Datong takes first prize in cultural artifacts.

How's this for urban beauty? This gigantic coal-fired power plant is just on the outskirts of town. It supplies electricity to nearby Beijing. They get the power, Datong gets to keep the pollution. Well, Beijing is a close runner up. Someone said that living in the capital was akin to smoking 7 packs of cigs a day.

Much of downtown Datong resembles old East Berlin, but without the WWII excuse. This may be due to the stimulus programs currently underway in China, which often involve public works in areas not "blessed" by the massive industrialization experienced along the coast and in the south. We did like the apricots sold by the guy sitting on the spiffy 3-wheeled truck, which were less than 50 cents per pound.

The view across the street, showing an informal marketplace amidst the rubble. The fresh fruit and veggies were the very best anywhere, bar none!

Another street scene, showing people sitting in chairs along the sidewalk, dogs going into and out of the shops.

What's this - impromptu brain surgery on the sidewalk? Britney Spears passed out? Nope, it's a game of Chinese checkers, which is a sport taken very seriously here. I guess it would be cooler to say, Mahjong.

The principal masterpiece of Datong city is its 9 Dragon Screen, constructed in 1392. This 8m (25') high screen is stunning as each dragon is huge and a masterpiece by itself. The screen was controversial when constructed because it was done by the emperor's son, who did not "rate" 9 dragons, the number 9 being reserved only for the emperor. However, the project was approved as the dragons were limited to having only 4 claws. It was once part of a Ming Dynasty palace that was destroyed when Datong was sacked in 1652. You can read more here, though we didn't find a great reference for this magnificent ceramic work, the largest in China. This temple screen was placed in front of a Ming dynasty palace to fend off evil spirits. The 45 meter long ceramic endeavor was supposed to prevent the unwanted spirits from crossing the threshold!

We debated how to share this jewel and decided to post all nine dragons, as each is a masterpiece by itself: Each tile speaks for itself.

What's the very best thing about present-day Datong? Noodles! The Italians got nothing on northern Chinese when it comes to noodles. They are to die for. Our last dinner out on our Chinese pigathon was to a noodle palace where we gorged ourselves on the most heavenly pasta known to man. Sorry Guido, the best stuff is over here. Noodles are made on the spot right where the famished can view the preparation! We worried they would have to roll us onto the plane.

OK, you're thinking, enough Slice 'O Life junk, give us a Buddha or two! How about 50,000, would that satisfy your heathen lust? Don't believe us? Then come along as we scale the Grottoes!