Eritrea

This is a story about one that got away. We had gotten within a few miles of Massawa when we received this e-mail from the US Consulate:

"The U.S. Department of State continues to warn U.S. citizens of the risks of travel to Eritrea and recommends that U.S. citizens defer all travel there...

"The Eritrean government continues to restrict the travel of all foreign nationals. These restrictions require all visitors and residents, including U.S. diplomats, to apply in advance for permission to travel outside the Asmara city limits. Recently, the Eritrean government has started to refuse all new diplomatic travel permit requests; this situation may continue indefinitely. As a result, the U.S. Embassy cannot provide emergency consular assistance outside of Asmara.

"A number of Eritrean-U.S. dual citizens have been arrested without apparent cause. Once arrested, detainees may be held for extended periods without being told the purpose of their incarceration. Conditions are harsh – those incarcerated may be held in very small quarters without access to restrooms, bedding, food, or clean water. The Eritrean government does not inform the U.S. Embassy when U.S. citizens, including those who are not dual nationals, have been arrested or detained."

Well, that doesn't sound too inviting, does it? We had just escaped one unstable dump and didn't want to be permanently ensconced in another. So, we decided to change course and head for Sudan. Our fellow yachties on Glide said they would head for Harmil Island and asked us to join them.

When we arrived there we were met by a skiff containing what we understood to be military people, even though they wore only tee shirts and long shorts which resembled 'jams'. They said we could stay a day or so to rest and fix our engine. We gave them some packs of Marlboros and matches, which they consumed with relish. Not too many convenience stores nearby.

The next morning they asked when we would leave. We said we hadn't had time to work on the engine and could we stay another day. They said, "You will leave - now" and the head guy motioned to his sidekick, who had a rusty AK-47 on his lap. They made us an offer we couldn't refuse. We decided to depart without contest, smiling in agreement.

Once we had started the engine and were weighing anchor, the head guy jumped aboard and started asking for booze. We replied we had only been to Muslim countries, which was the truth but not the whole truth. At any rate, we didn't want the command to leave to become an order to stay, so we hastened our departure as best we could, thanking them for their gracious hospitality.

This is a shot of the gun-toting officials frog-marching a yacht out of the anchorage. We wanted a better picture but figured they didn't want to be featured on a website - military people are like that.

This is what they were guarding - a couple of rusty shacks. Eritrea is reported to be the second-poorest country in the world, but that doesn't stop petty officials from doing their duty. Actually, the Red Sea Pilot book describes this island as having gun emplacements. Funny how we missed that bit of info.

This is our brief tale of visiting Eritrea. It was a shame as we had bought a bunch of stuff to give away, along with old pots & pans, etc. But like most African governments, Eritrea treats its citizens like dirt and doesn't care if its policies are harmful. Others of different nationalities had a lovely story of Eritrea and the city of Asmara. Such are the vagaries of politics.

Anyway, join us as we continue our journey up the Red Sea!

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