Maldives

This is a satellite image of just one of the archipelagos that make up the Maldives, showing our first landfall in 9 days in the lower left-hand corner at Kulhhudhuffushi. We though it did a good job of showing what the Malidives are like - a platform of sorts pops out of the deep ocean to a depth of about 130' and is like a plateau in the deep sea, or perhaps a mesa. On top of this platform is a sprinkling of low coral islands and reefs. The water is gin-clear and the water-life is stunning, as pelagic fish are plentiful. Giant rays were the first beauties seen gliding through the anchorage. We managed to do some snorkeling off the end of Amante which was wonderful. We had not been in clear translucent water since Indonesia or the outer isles of Thailand.

We arrived at Kulhhudhuffushi, but discovered that if we checked in there we'd be hit for $700 in fees in order to visit another island. So, we eased out early the next morning and headed for Uligan, where the check-in is free and easy, probably the easiest this side of Malaysia. Having done nothing illegal but make a brief 12 hour sleeping stop, we were keen to get to an anchorage which was 'yachtie friendly'.

Here is the open anchorage at Uligan where dozens of boats anxiously awaited word from UKMTO on conditions in the Arabian Peninsula. Each day meetings where held to glean the latest news from boats who had traveled ahead and on routing and Safety information carefully compiled by fellow yachts. An American yacht from Chicago had arranged for a live question and answer forum with UKMTO in Dubai (United Maritime Trade Organization). By and large the word was to avoid the area at all costs. One could either go around South Africa, or head back to Thailand. Period.

Though happy to be anchored, we were aware that vegetables and fruits were imported and very dear. But, there is a difference between expensive and not being able to buy them at all!

Uligan is proud of its cleanliness and ability to cater to the demands of foreign yachts which include fuel , water, and fresh produce. We found the officials extremely mindful of our wants and needs and they bent over backwards to accommodate every nationality.

This is a street in Uligan, but every island we saw in the Maldives had this perfectly straight and clean appearance. Most buildings are constructed of coral blocks, the only material available.

Supply boat. The ubiquitous query was, ""When is the supply boat coming?"

Just days prior to our departure from the Maldives, the locals provided a wonderful potluck dinner and fish grill. All boats brought a National dish and officials provided fresh reef pescado grilled over coconut husks.

All of the young children and wives eventually flew back to their home while their husband and crew forayed on. Some single handed their way and braved the seas alone. Family later met up with them in Egypt or Turkey.

Though we did not have a cruising permit, the officials arranged a day excursion to nearby islands for a nominal fee. We visited two isles and had lunch and a snorkeling trip all for the stupendous sum of 10$ U.S.

It was hard to find people willing to get their picture taken. But this old-timer couldn't resist meeting a pretty girl...

Getting ready to go fishing.

As mentioned earlier, each afternoon most yachts got together to share important info on route and safety issues. The information coming from UKMTO and other military and peace keeping affiliations was disturbing and not to say the least, frightening. The amount of hijackings of ships had increased daily and mother ships and their skiffs were now spread ALL across the Arabian Sea making virtually any route impossible. The decision to go or stay was in the hands of each individual yacht.

We had arranged (and paid for) a convoy organized out of Thailand, but that just didn't happen. Fortunately, some enterprising Canadians came along and organized a convoy out of Uligan as far as the Bab El Mandeb, which covers the main danger areas. The major factor we had to deal with was the huge increase in pirate activity in the Arabian Sea, as it used to be mostly in the Gulf of Aden. However, the pirates started using captured merchant vessels as mother ships instead of fishing dhows. This greatly increased their range and capacity to take attack skiffs along. Somali pirates operate like whaling ships, i.e. the ship carries small boats that do the actual attacking. Instead of harpoons they have RPGs, but the rest is pretty similar.

While fretting about the pirates we began to be pressured by the authorities to leave. While they sympathized with our plight their bosses wanted us to pay $700 or go. We chose to leave.

Please join us as we brave the pirates of the Arabian Sea...

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