NZ South

We had planned a road trip of the S Island upon our return to NZ in March of 2006. This was mixed up with major boat projects, such as replacing the engine. What follows mostly consists of pictures. This is because we are losing our broadband Internet connection soon and need to update the site before we leave NZ.

This is a view of Wellington Harbor at the N end of the ferry connection.

This is the entrance to Tory Strait, showing Queen Charlotte Sound in the distance.

This is Queen Charlotte Sound on the S Island, Capt Cook's favorite anchorage.

This is a view of the placid Tasman Sea on the W coast near Westport.

This is a blowhole at Pancake Rocks.

Yes, NZ has "penguin crossing" signs.

This is where they live, at least during mating season. They migrate here from their Antarctic fishing grounds.

This is sea foam on a beach at Okarito...

with a sunset showing the waves that make it.

Yes, this is a kiwi crossing. Kiwis are nocturnal and rarely seen.

This is the famous Franz Josef Glacier, named for the Austrian Kaiser's beard. It is one of the few glaciers in the world that is growing.

This is a view up the glacier. The sun seldom shines here owing to the constant influx of moist air up the slopes from the Tasman Sea.

Here's our intrepid glacier bunny. Climbing this glacier was tough, especially as everyone else was half our age.

Note the blue color of the ice in this crevasse. This is a grueling and unforgiving environment.

This is a one-lane bridge, the most common kind found on the S Island. It takes light traffic and well-behaved drivers to make this work safely.

This is Lake Wanaka, one of the S Island's many glacier-carved lakes.

This is a middle-aged guy trying to do a James Dean impression.

This is a typical S Island campground showing the fall colors of a Southern April.

Much of the time we tried to sleep in the back of the truck but that got old, so we stayed in cabins or even B&Bs. We had the most fun at "Gunn's Camp" in the Hollyford Valley near Milford sound. If you visit NZ you must see Milford Sound and if you do that, you must visit Gunn's Camp. The cabins are old worker's housing. Note the pretty homemaker next to her wood-burning stove.

Corny jokes abound around the camp. This is a fake bomb made from a fishing float. The late Murray Gunn got the NZ Prime Minister to pose next to the bomb, which was supposedly deactivated on her orders (NZ is very proud of being a nuclear-free zone, much to the annoyance of the US).

This is a shot of Milford Sound, one of the most beautiful, and wettest, places on the planet. They get upwards of 20m (60') of rain per year, so much so that the Sound has fresh water on top to a depth of 5m (15'), which is remarkable as it is open to the sea.

This breathtaking isle of icy mountains and quiet reflection is one of the most pristine voyages that either we or any eighteenth century captain could ever share.

John and I were enraptured by the sheer desolation and stunning beauty created by the early snow that had just dusted these high latitude mountains.

Another obnoxious tourist.

Milford Sound was carved by glaciers and now has dozens of waterfalls all along its steep, rainy sides.

Here's the happy couple posing during a brief lull in the constant rain.

Here's a rare shot of the Sound in a semi-clear moment - this place is stunning.

This is the entrance to the Homer tunnel, which is only one lane. Cars have to take turns going each way.

The road leading to the tunnel was dusted in snow, even in early fall. We are only a few miles from the ocean.

This is a view in Mt Cook National Park. This is the eastern side of the Southern Alps. Just about every slope is covered with a glacier.

This is one of the many suspension bridges over the roaring glacial streams in the park.

The winds often blow over these peaks at over 50 knots. This is Mt Sefton; it's only about 10,200' high, but the abundant moisture from the nearby Tasman Sea keeps it enveloped in snow and ice.

At 3755m, Mount Cook is the highest point in Australasia.

This is a view of Golden Bay, near Farewell Spit. Abel Tasman, the first European to visit New Zealand, called it "Murder's Bay" on account of some crew members being killed and eaten by a native welcoming committee.

This is a view of Picton, the ferry terminus on the S Island. It is at the head of Queen Charlotte Sound.

It was with great reluctance that we left the South Island, one of the most spectacular spots on the entire planet. But, we had to return to our plastic "home" back on the North Island in order to finally leave this temperate paradise. Sigh...

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